On Food and Cooking

(Barry) #1

of stabilizers, usually long carbohydrate or
protein molecules that fill the spaces between
droplets. American bottled “salad dressing” is
a very stable hybrid of mayonnaise and a
boiled white sauce made with water instead of
milk. The texture of such modified sauces,
however, is noticeably different from the
dense, creamy original. Refrigerated
mayonnaise should be handled gently, since
some oil may have crystallized and escaped
from their droplets. If so, stir gently to
reemulsify it, perhaps with the addition of a
few drops of water.


Making mayonnaise. The cook begins with a
small volume of the water phase — mostly egg
yolk — and slowly beats oil into droplets in

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