On Food and Cooking

(Barry) #1

a special product of the sea-salt beds of west-
central France. It consists of the crystals that
form and accumulate at the surface of the salt
pans when the humidity and breezes are right;
they’re gently raked off the surface before
they have a chance to fall below the surface,
where the ordinary gray sea salt accumulates.
Fleur de sel forms delicate flakes, doesn’t
carry the particles of sediment that darken and
dull the gray salt, but is said to carry traces of
algae and other materials that contribute a
characteristic aroma. This is possible, since
the interface between water and air is where
aroma molecules and other fatty materials
would concentrate; but to date the aroma of
sea salts has not been much studied. Thanks to
the labor required to make it, fleur de sel is
expensive, and is used as a last-minute
condiment rather than as a cooking salt.


Flavored and Colored Salts In addition to
providing its own saltiness, salt is sometimes

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