On Food and Cooking

(Barry) #1

whey from the curd particles, but also affects
bacteria and enzymes, and encourages flavor-
producing chemical reactions among some
milk components. Once the curd pieces are
placed in the mold that gives the cheese its
final shape, they may be pressed to squeeze
out yet more moisture.
The cheesemaker always adds salt to the
new cheese, either by mixing dry salt with the
curd pieces or by applying dry salt or brine to
whole cheese. The salt provides more than its
own taste. It inhibits the growth of spoilage
microbes, and it’s an essential regulator of
cheese structure and the ripening process. It
draws moisture out of the curds, firms the
protein structure, slows the growth of ripening
microbes, and alters the activity of ripening
enzymes. Most cheeses contain between 1.5
and 2% salt by weight; Emmental is the least
salty traditional cheese at about 0.7%, while
feta, Roquefort, and pecorino may approach
5%.

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