On Food and Cooking

called peptides, some still tasteless, some
bitter. Usually these are eventually broken
down by microbial enzymes into the 20
individual protein building blocks, the
amino acids, a number of which are sweet
or savory. The amino acids can in turn be
broken into various amines, some of which
are reminiscent of ocean fish
(trimethylamine), others of spoiling meat
(putrescine); into strong sulfur compounds
(a specialty of smear bacteria), or into
simple ammonia, a powerful aroma that in
overripened cheeses is harsh, like
household cleaner. Though few of these
sound appetizing, bare hints of them
together build the complexity and richness
of cheese flavor.
Then there are the fats, which are
broken down into fatty acids by blue-
cheese Penicillium roqueforti and by
special enzymes added to Pecorino and
Provolone cheeses. Some fatty acids