understand that bulk supermarket cheeses are
only pale (or dyed) imitations of their more
flavorful, distinctive originals. The way to
find good cheeses is to buy from a specialist
who loves and knows them, chooses the best
and takes good care of them, and offers
samples for tasting.
Cut to Order Whenever possible, buy portions
that are cut while you watch. Precut portions
may be days or weeks old, and their large
exposed surfaces inevitably develop rancid
flavors from contact with air and plastic wrap.
Exposure to light in the dairy case also
damages lipids and causes off-flavors in as
little as two days; in addition it bleaches the
annatto in orange-dyed cheeses, turning it
pink. Pregrated cheese has a tremendous
surface area, and while it is often carefully
wrapped, it loses much of its aroma and its
carbon dioxide, which also contributes the
impression of staleness.