On Food and Cooking

(Barry) #1

crystalline, less dense, less chewy version.
Caramels made with dairy products owe some
of their flavor to caramelized sugar, but they
include flavors from the Maillard reactions.
Like the terminology, caramelized sugar and
dairy flavors blend easily with each other.
This may be in part because one of the
important products of sugar caramelization is
diacetyl, an aromatic chemical that provides
the pronounced buttery aroma of cultured
butter(p. 35). Caramel has a rich, complex
flavor and consistency, viscous and sticky and
creamy all at once, that works well with most
sweets and fruits, with coffee and chocolate,
and even with salt: the prized caramels of
Brittany are made with a notable dose of sea
salt.


Sugar Work The most spectacular sugar
preparations are those that take advantage of
sugar’s similarity to glass: its transparency
and capacity to be sculpted, blown, and drawn

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