cook beats it continuously for about 15
minutes, until crystallization is complete.
The texture of these candies depends on
how much water they’re left with. If the syrup
has become especially concentrated, the
texture will be dry and crumbly, the
appearance dull; if it’s less cooked or absorbs
moisture from the air during cooling and
beating, it will be soft, even runny, the
appearance glossy thanks to the abundance of
syrup between crystals. Small variations in
water content — just 1 or 2% — make a
noticeable difference. Fudge is more complex
than fondant, its syrup carrying milk solids
and fat droplets as well as sugar crystals.
Panned Candies These are the modern
version of the medieval dragées: flavorful
nuts or spices coated in sugar. There are two
basic ways to coat candies in a pan. In hard
panning, the nut or spice or other center is
rolled around a hot pan and periodically