On Food and Cooking

(Barry) #1

bubble walls, and this reinforcement, together
with the viscosity of the syrup, stabilizes the
foam structure. The gelatin accounts for 2–3%
of the mixture, and produces a somewhat
elastic texture. Marshmallows made with egg
whites are lighter and softer.


Nougat Nougat is a traditional sugar candy
made in Provence that contains nuts and is
aerated with egg-white foam. Italian torrone
and Spanish turron are similar. It’s a cross
between a meringue and a candy, and is made
by preparing a meringue and then streaming
hot, concentrated sugar syrup into it while
continuing to beat. It can be either soft and
chewy or hard and crunchy depending on the
degree to which the sugar syrup is cooked and
the proportion of sugar syrup to egg white.
Honey is often an ingredient.


Flashy  Candies:    Lightning   in  the Mouth
Mix together crystals of table sugar and
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