that are much less astringent. Most important,
the beans’ own digestive enzymes mix with
the storage proteins and sucrose sugar and
break them down into their building blocks —
amino acids and simple sugars — which are
much more reactive than their parent
molecules, and will produce more aromatic
molecules during the roasting process.
Finally, the perforated beans soak up some
flavor molecules from the fermenting pulp,
including sugars and acids, fruity and flowery
and winey notes. So a properly conducted
fermentation converts the astringent but bland
beans into vessels laden with desirable flavors
and flavor precursors.
Drying Once fermentation is complete, the
cacao farmers dry the beans, often just by
spreading them out on a flat surface in the
sun. Drying can take several days, and if not
done carefully can allow undesirable bacteria
and molds to grow both on and within the