On Food and Cooking

(Barry) #1

extended agitation called conching, a process
named after the shell-like shape of the first
machines. Conches rub and smear the mixture
of cocoa liquor, sugar, and milk solids against
a solid surface. The combination of friction
and supplemental heat raises the temperature
of the mass to 115–175ºF/45–80ºC (milk
chocolate is kept at 110–135ºF/43–57ºC).
Depending on the machine and manufacturer,
conching may last for 8 to 36 hours.


Refining Texture and Flavor The original
conche was a mechanized version of the
Mayan stone grinding slab: a heavy granite
roller moved back and forth over a granite
bed, both mixing the ingredients together and
grinding the still somewhat coarse particles to
a finer size. Today the various solids are
ground to the proper dimensions before
conching, which now serves two main
functions. First, it breaks up small aggregates
of the solid particles, separates them from

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