heated. In the charred American barrels used
for whiskey, the carbonized surface acts
something like an activated charcoal
absorbant, removing some materials from the
whiskey and so accelerating the maturation of
its flavor. Gaps and pores in the wood allow
the liquid to absorb limited amounts of
oxygen. And the rich chemical brew of wine
or spirits, wood components, and oxygen
slowly undergoes innumerable reactions and
evolves toward a harmonious equilibrium.
New oak barrels give a pronounced flavor
to liquids stored in them, one that can
overwhelm the inherent qualities of delicate
wines. The producer can control the
contribution of the wood by limiting the aging
time in new barrels, or by working with used
barrels, which have already had much of their
flavor components extracted.
Barrel Fermentation
Some wines and vinegars are fermented in