On Food and Cooking

(Barry) #1
period...during which   the wine    must    pass
from a permeable container [the barrel] to
one nearly impermeable [the bottle].

Scientific Approaches to Making Wine
Pasteur planted the seed of a scientific
approach to winemaking. That seed soon took
root in both France and the United States. In
the 1880s, the University of Bordeaux and the
University of California established institutes
of oenology. The Bordeaux group focused on
understanding and improving traditional
French methods for producing fine wines, and
discovered the nature of the malolactic
fermentation (p. 730). The California institute
moved from Berkeley to Davis in 1928, and
studied how best to build a wine industry in
the absence of a local tradition, including
determining what grape varieties were best
suited to various climatic conditions. Today,
thanks to this and similar work in a number of
countries, and to the general modernization of

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