On Food and Cooking

Burgundy and Bordeaux, develop striking
and unusual aroma notes suggestive of the
barnyard or horse stable. Oenologists have
recently discovered the major source of
these aromas to be a group of yeasts in the
g e n u s Brettanomyces, which readily
colonize wine barrels. At low levels, their
unusual aromas may suggest tobacco leaf;
they also include smoky, medicinal, clove-
like, and musty notes (the barnyard notes
come from ethyl phenols and isovaleric
and isobutyric acids). Some wine lovers
consider the “brett” aroma a defect caused
by contamination and inadequate winery
sanitation, while others appreciate it as an
intriguing contribution to the variety and
complexity of wine flavors.
Barrel Aging New wine has a raw flavor and a
strong, simple, fruity aroma. As the wine rests
after fermentation, a host of chemical
reactions slowly proceeds, and results in the
development of balance and complexity in the