On Food and Cooking

(Barry) #1

enzymes, and generate trace byproducts that
contribute flavor. Once the grain cakes have
been well permeated with microbes, they’re
dried for storage. When needed for chiu
production, they’re soaked in water for
several days to reactivate the microbes and
their enzymes.


Pasteurization  Before  Pasteur
Unlike European wines and beers, chiu was
usually served warm or hot. Perhaps
because they noticed that heated leftovers
kept better than the original batch, by
1000 CE the Chinese had developed the
practice of steaming containers of newly
fermented chiu to slow its deterioration. In
the 16th century, Japanese brewers refined
this method by lowering the heating
temperature to 140–150ºF/60–65ºC, which
is high enough to kill most enzymes and
microbes, but does less damage to the
flavor of the sake. Asian brewers were thus
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