On Food and Cooking

starch and the least protein or oil, so the more
the outer layers of the rice are ground away,
the simpler and purer the remaining grain, and
the less grain flavor it contributes to the final
liquid.
Sake is also fermented at significantly
lower temperatures than Chinese rice
alcohols. Beginning in the 18th century, most
sake brewing was reserved for the winter
months, and this remains largely the case
today. The upper limit for sake brewing is
around 64ºF/18ºC, and brewers of the highest
grades will keep the temperature at a
distinctly chilly 50ºF/10ºC. In these
conditions, the fermentation takes about a
month instead of two to three weeks, and the
mash accumulates two to five times the
normal quantity of aroma compounds, notably
the esters that provide apple, banana, and
other fruity notes.
Once the sake fermentation is complete,
the liquid is pressed from the solids, then