On Food and Cooking

(Barry) #1

distillation of esters from the wine yeasts.
Armagnac is relatively rough and complex
thanks to its higher content of volatile acids;
it’s said to have a prune-like aroma. With
long aging, both develop a prized rancio
(“rancid”) character from the transformation
of fatty acids into methyl ketones, which also
provide the distinctive aroma of blue
cheese(p. 62).
Less renowned brandies are made
elsewhere in France and throughout the world
in a variety of ways, from the industrial to the
artisanal. Especially interesting are brandies
distilled from more distinctive grape varieties
than the purposely neutral Ugni blanc.


Eaux de vie, Fruit Alcohols, White Alcohols
These are various terms that are less
confusing than their synonym “fruit brandy”:
they name spirits that are distilled from
fermented fresh fruits other than grapes.
Unlike true “burned wines,” which offer a

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