On Food and Cooking

(Barry) #1

are pressed. These drinks were born from
frugality, as a way of getting the most out of
the grapes. The solid remains still have juice,
sugar, and flavor in them, so with some water
and another period of fermentation, they
generate alcohol and flavors that can then be
concentrated by distillation, leaving behind
the harsh astringency and bitterness. Pomace
distillates were very much a by-product,
usually distilled just once and often without
diverting the heads and tails, and were bottled
as is: so they were strong and harsh,
something to warm and stimulate the vineyard
workers, but not something to savor. In the
last few decades, producers have been
distilling more selectively and sometimes
aging the results to make a fine drink.


Tequila and Mezcal These spirits are
distilled from the carbohydrate-rich heart of
certain Mexican species of the agave, a
succulent plant in the Amaryllis family that

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