On Food and Cooking

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heated, and so  determines  the
temperature at which eggs set. The
setting temperature is higher for whole
eggs than for egg white, because
ovotransferrin becomes more stable and
resistant to coagulation when it binds the
abundant iron in the yolk. The color of
ovotransferrin changes when it latches
onto metals, which is why egg whites
whipped in a copper bowl turn golden;
you can also make a pink meringue by
dosing the whites with a pinch of ground-
up iron supplement.

The Nutritional Value of Eggs


An egg contains everything you need to make
a chick, all the ingredients and chemical
machinery and fuel. That fact is its strength as
a food. Cooked — to neutralize the protective
antinutritional proteins — the egg is one of
the most nutritious foods we have. (Raw, it

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