white is runnier in the pan; a flabby yolk
membrane is more likely to break when the
egg is cracked open; and a large air cell means
an irregular shape for a whole hard-cooked
egg. The only culinary benefit to an older egg
is that it’s easier to peel.
Handling and Storing Eggs
Producers handle eggs in ways that are meant
to slow down the inevitable deterioration in
quality. Eggs are gathered as shortly after
laying as possible and immediately cooled. In
the United States, they are then washed in
warm water and detergent to remove the
thousands of bacteria deposited on the shell
during its passage through the hen’s cloacal
opening. In the past, the washed eggs were
given a fresh coat of mineral oil to retard the
loss of both CO 2 and moisture; today, with
most eggs getting to market just two days
after laying and refrigerated during shipping