On Food and Cooking

(Barry) #1

predominantly in the white, when the albumen
proteins begin to unfold and free their sulfur
atoms for reaction with other molecules, at
temperatures above 140ºF/60ºC. The longer
the albumen spends at these temperatures, the
stronger the sulfury aroma. Greater quantities
of H 2 S are produced when the egg is older and


the pH higher (the highly alkaline conditions
in Chinese preserving methods, p. 116, also
liberate copious amounts of H 2 S). Added


lemon juice or vinegar reduces H 2 S


production and its aroma. Because hydrogen
sulfide is volatile, it escapes from cooked
eggs during storage, so they get milder with
time. Small quantities of ammonia are also
created during cooking and make a subliminal
contribution to egg flavor (but an
overpowering one in Chinese preserved eggs).


Basic Egg Dishes


Eggs Cooked in the Shell

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