On Food and Cooking

(Barry) #1

Then, when cooks from that region
discovered the advantage of beating the
eggs thoroughly with the new straw whisk
before adding sugar, the local term spread
with their invention, and in the rest of
France served to distinguish this delicate
foam from its dense predecessors.
Between the two extremes — adding all
the sugar after the foam has been made, or
adding it all at the start of foaming — are a
host of methods that call for adding certain
portions of the sugar along the way. There’s
plenty of latitude in meringue making! Just
remember: the earlier the sugar is added in the
course of beating, the firmer and finer-
textured the meringue. Sugar folded in after
the beating stops will soften the texture.


Cooked Meringues Cooked meringues are
more trouble to make than uncooked
meringues, and are generally denser because
heat sets the albumen proteins and

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