is bactericidal. These treatments were
rendered obsolete by the advent of
refrigeration and year-round egg production.
Still vital 500 years after their first known
description are Chinese preservation methods
that maintain the nutritional value of the egg
but drastically change its flavor, consistency,
and appearance. The closest Western
counterpart to this ovo-alchemy is
cheesemaking, which transforms milk into an
entirely different food. Ordinary vinegar-
pickled eggs offer only a hint of the
possibilities; they are to Chinese preserved
eggs as yogurt is to Stilton.
Pickled Eggs
Common pickled eggs are made by first
boiling the eggs and then immersing them in a
solution of vinegar, salt, spices, and often a
coloring like beet juice, for 1 to 3 weeks. Over
that time the vinegar’s acetic acid dissolves