On Food and Cooking

(Barry) #1

liquid, but the yolk at its center becomes
solid. The high levels of positive sodium and
negative chloride ions actually shield the
albumen proteins from each other, but cause
the yolk particles to agglomerate into a grainy
mass. Salted eggs, which are variously called
hulidan and xiandan, are boiled before they’re
eaten.


Fermented Eggs A second kind of preserved
egg, little seen in the West, is made by
covering gently cracked eggs in a fermenting
mass of cooked rice or other grains mixed
with salt: in essence a concentrated and salty
version of sake or beer. Zaodan mature in four
to six months and take on the aromatic, sweet,
alcoholic flavor of their surroundings. Both
white and yolk coagulate and fall out of the
softened shell. Such eggs can be eaten as is or
cooked first.


Pidan: “Thousand-Year-Old” Alkali-Cured
Eggs The most famous of preserved eggs are

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