On Food and Cooking

brain that marked the evolution of early
hominids into humans. Later, meat was the
food that made it possible for humans to
migrate from Africa and thrive in cold regions
of Europe and Asia, where plant foods were
seasonally scarce or even absent. Humans
became active hunters around 100,000 years
ago, and it’s vividly clear from cave paintings
of wild cattle and horses that they saw their
prey as embodiments of strength and vitality.
These same qualities came to be attributed to
meat as well, and a successful hunt has long
been the occasion for pride, gratitude, and
celebratory feasting. Though we no longer
depend on the hunt for meat, or on meat for
survival, animal flesh remains the centerpiece
of meals throughout much of the world.
Paradoxically, meat is also the most
widely avoided of major foods. In order to eat
meat, we necessarily cause the death of other
creatures that feel fear and pain, and whose
flesh resembles our own. Many people