On Food and Cooking

(Barry) #1

“marbling” is used to describe the pattern of
white splotches in the red matrix of muscle.


Tissues and Textures The texture of tender
meat is as distinctive and satisfying as its
flavor: a “meaty” food is something you can
sink your teeth into, dense and substantial,
initially resistant to the tooth but soon giving
way as it liberates its flavor. Toughness is a
resistance to chewing that persists long
enough to become unpleasant. Toughness can
come from the muscle fibers, the connective
tissue surrounding them, and from the lack of
marbling fat.
Generally, the toughness of a cut of meat is
determined by where it comes from in the
animal’s body, and by the animal’s age and
activity. Get down on all fours and “graze,”
and you’ll notice that the neck, shoulders,
chest, and front limbs all work hard, while the
back is more relaxed. Shoulders and legs are
used continually in walking and standing, and

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