On Food and Cooking

Rural and Urban Styles of Meat There are
two traditional, indeed ancient ways of
obtaining meat from animals, and they
produce meats of distinctive qualities.
One method is to raise animals primarily
for their value as living companions — oxen
and horses for their work in the fields, laying
hens for their eggs, cows and sheep and goats
for their milk and for wool — and turn them
into meat only when they are no longer
productive. In this system, slaughtering
animals for meat is the last use of a resource
that is more valuable when alive. The meat
comes from mature animals, and is therefore
well exercised and relatively tough, lean but
flavorful. This method was by far the most
common one from prehistoric times until the
19th century.
The second way of obtaining meat from
animals is to raise the animals exclusively for
that purpose. This means feeding the animals
well, sparing them unnecessary exercise, and