On Food and Cooking

(Barry) #1

counter-balanced by the brine absorbed, so the
moisture loss is effectively cut in half. In
addition, the dissolved protein filaments can’t
coagulate into normally dense aggregates, so
the cooked meat seems more tender. Because
the brine works its way in from the outside, it
has its earliest and strongest effects on the
meat region most likely to be overcooked, so
even a brief, incomplete soaking can make a
difference.
The obvious disadvantage of brining is that
it makes both the meat and its drippings quite
salty. Some recipes balance the saltiness by
including sugar or such ingredients as fruit
juice or buttermilk, which provide both
sweetness and sourness.


Shredding Even if a tough roast has been
cooked to the point that it has become tender
but unpleasantly dry, the cook can restore a
certain succulence to the meat by pulling it
apart into small shreds and pouring over them

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