On Food and Cooking

(Barry) #1

warmer than the breast. They brine the bird to
juice up its breast. Perfectionists cut the bird
up and roast legs and breasts separately.


Hot Metal: Frying,
or Sautéing


Simple frying, or sautéing, cooks by the direct
conduction of heat energy from hot metal pan
to meat, usually via a thin layer of oil that
prevents the meat from sticking and conducts
heat evenly across minute gaps between meat
and pan. Metals are the best heat conductors
known, and frying therefore cooks the meat
surface rapidly. Its distinctive characteristic is
the ability to brown and flavor the meat
surface in a matter of seconds. This searing
action requires a combination of heat source
and pan that can maintain a high temperature
even while the leaking meat juices are being
vaporized. If the pan gets cool enough to let
moisture accumulate — for example because

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