On Food and Cooking

(Barry) #1

the most evident of which is mucus, a
proteinaceous substance much like egg white.
The skin is often richer than the flesh,
averaging 5–10% fat. The thick dermis layer
of the skin is especially rich inconnective
tissue. It’s generally about one-third collagen
by weight, and therefore can contribute much
more thickening gelatin to stocks and stews
than the fish’s flesh (0.3–3% collagen) or
bones. Moist heating will turn the skin into a
slick gelatinous sheet, while frying or grilling
enough to desiccate it will make it crisp.
Scales are another evident form of
protection for the fish skin. They are made up
of the same hard, tough calcareous minerals
as teeth, and are removed by scraping against
their grain with a knife blade.


Bones The main skeleton of a small or
moderate-size fish, consisting of the backbone
and attached rib cage, can often be separated
from the meat in one piece. However, there

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