On Food and Cooking

(Barry) #1

moisture and odor and firm the outer layers.
This is especially useful for getting fish skin
to crisp and brown quickly when fried. As is
true for meats, presoaking fish and shellfish in
a 3–5% salt brine will cause the flesh to
absorb both water and salt, with moisturizing
and tenderizing results (p. 155).


Techniques for Cooking Fish and Shellfish


The many methods for heating meats and fish
are described in detail in the previous chapter,
pp. 156–65. Briefly, “dry” heating methods —
grilling, frying, baking — produce surface
temperatures high enough to produce the
colors and flavors of the browning reactions,
while “moist” techniques — steaming,
poaching — fail to trigger browning, but heat
foods more rapidly and can supply flavors
from other ingredients. (Chinese cooks often
get the best of both methods by first frying a
fish and then finishing it with a brief braise in

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