On Food and Cooking

(Barry) #1

include flour and flour-based batters;
cornmeal or breadcrumbs; ground spices or
nuts or shredded coconut; thin shreds, strings,
or sheets of potato or another starchy root
(sometimes cut and arranged to look like fish
scales); and rice paper. The adhesion of
coating to fish can be improved by first
lightly salting the fish, which draws some
protein-rich, sticky fluid to the surface.
Frying is also an excellent way to crisp the
skin on a whole fish or fillet. The skin will dry
out more rapidly and thoroughly if it’s first
salted to remove moisture.
Fried surfaces stay crispest when they’re
exposed to the air; confined between the moist
fish and plate, a crisp skin or coating soon
reabsorbs moisture and softens. Serve
crunchy-skinned fillets skin-side up, or at
least give the skin room to breathe.


Sautéing When frying in a small amount of
oil, it’s best to heat the pan before adding the

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