On Food and Cooking

(Barry) #1

removed from their surfaces during frying to
produce a crisp crust. And the minimal
mixing means an uneven batter consistency
and therefore an uneven, lacy coating on the
fish, rather than a monolithic sheet.


Simmering, Poaching, Stewing Immersing
fish in hot liquid is a simple, flexible method
that offers the cook unmatched control over
the heating. The liquid can be very hot for
cooking thin pieces in a matter of seconds,
moderately hot for thicker pieces, or start out
cold for gently cooking a whole fish through;
it can be flavored in many different ways; and
it can be turned into a sauce. When a fish or
shellfish is served in a generous quantity of its
cooking liquid, however supplemented with
other ingredients, the French fittingly call it a
preparation à la nage, or “aswim.”


The Cooking Liquids Because fish don’t
require prolonged cooking, there’s little time
for fish and cooking liquid to exchange

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