On Food and Cooking

(Barry) #1

different story. It is fatal to the fat globule
membrane. Cold milk fat and freezing water
both form large, solid, jagged crystals that
pierce, crush, and rend the thin veil of
phospholipids and proteins around the
globule, just a few molecules thick. If you
freeze milk or cream and then thaw it, much
of the membrane material ends up floating
free in the liquid, and many of the fat globules
get stuck to each other in grains of butter.
Make the mistake of heating thawed milk or
cream, and the butter grains melt into puddles
of oil.


Milk Proteins: Coagulation
by Acid and Enzymes


Two Protein Classes: Curd and Whey There
are dozens of different proteins floating
around in milk. When it comes to cooking
behavior, fortunately, we can reduce the
protein population to two basic groups: Little

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