On Food and Cooking

(Barry) #1

the muscle fibers in place once they’ve
shortened, and reinforcement with large
amounts of connective-tissue collagen. Catch
muscles have an opalescent appearance, much
like the tough tendons in a chicken leg or leg
of lamb, and they are tough to eat as well
unless cooked for a long time. In the scallop,
the small catch portion would detract from the
large quick portion’s tenderness, and so is
usually cut away.


Mollusc Texture The adductor muscles
largely determine the texture of several
bivalves — especially the scallop, whose
large and tender “swimming” muscle is often
the only portion served. The other bivalve
bodies are eaten whole, and include one or
two adductors together with miscellaneous
innards; small tubes and thin sheets of muscle
and connective tissue; soft masses of eggs,
sperm, and food particles; and a general
proteinaceous mucus that lubricates and binds

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