On Food and Cooking

(Barry) #1

meat can be quite tough, in part because they
apparently accumulate connective-tissue
collagen as an energy reserve! Either very
gentle or prolonged heating is essential; the
meat toughens badly when it exceeds
120ºF/50ºC, and the collagen shrinks and
compacts the tissue. Once this happens,
continued simmering will eventually dissolve
the collagen into gelatin and make the meat
densely silken. Japanese cooks simmer
abalone for several hours to obtain a more
savory flavor (free amino acids apparently
react to form taste-active peptides).


Clams Clams are the burrowing bivalves.
They dig themselves into ocean or river
sediments by extending a foot muscle
downward, expanding its end into an anchor,
and then contracting the foot while squirting
water and rocking the shell. In order to reach
the water from their burrow to breathe and
feed, they have a pair of muscular tubes or

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