On Food and Cooking

(Barry) #1

cut from the shell and eaten raw. It’s big
enough to make a generous morsel, has a full,
complex flavor and suggestively slippery
moistness; and its delicacy is a striking
contrast to the encrusted, rocky shell.


Clam and mussel anatomy. The bulk of the
clam body (left) is the muscular foot, while
the mussel body (right) is mainly a
nonmuscular mantle and the digestive and
reproductive organs it encloses. The shell-
closing adductor muscles are relatively minor
parts. The mussel’s “beard” is a thatch of
tough protein fibers that anchor it to a rock or
other support.
Oyster Types Oysters became scarce as early
as the 17th century, and are now largely
farmed. A handful of the two dozen oyster

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