On Food and Cooking

(Barry) #1

to oysters. The greater the salinity of the
water, the more taste-active amino acids the
oyster’s cells must contain to balance the
dissolved salt outside, and so the more savory
its flavor. The local plankton and dissolved
minerals will leave distinctive traces in the
animal; and predators, currents, and exposure
in the tidal zone will exercise and enlarge its
adductor muscle. Water temperature
determines how rapidly the oyster grows, and
even its sex: warmth and plentiful food
usually mean fast growth and development
into a plump female creamy with millions of
tiny eggs; cold water means slow growth, an
indefinitely postponed sexual maturity, and a
leaner, crisper texture.


Handling and Preparing Oysters Live oysters
can survive for a week or more under moist
wraps in the refrigerator, cupped shell down.
Up to a point, this holding period can heighten
their flavor, since metabolism without oxygen

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