On Food and Cooking

textured. They’re arrayed in multiple layers,
and greatly reinforced with strengthening and
toughening connective-tissue collagen, some
three to five times more than fish muscle has.
Unlike the fragile collagen of fish, squid and
octopus collagen is extensively cross-linked
and behaves more like the collagen of meat
animals.
Like the abalone and clam, squid and
octopus must be cooked either barely and
briefly to prevent the muscle fibers from
toughening, or for a long time to break down
the collagen. Cooked quickly to 130–
135ºF/55–57ºC, their flesh is moist and almost
crisp. At 140ºF/60ºC it curls and shrinks as the
collagen layers contract and squeeze moisture
from the muscle fibers. Continued gentle
simmering for an hour or more will dissolve
the tough, contracted collagen into gelatin and
give the flesh a silken succulence. Pounding
can also help disorganize and thus tenderize
mantles and arms.