On Food and Cooking

(Barry) #1

chance to eat fresh fish. Before refrigeration
and motorized transportation became
common, fish were harvested in such numbers
and spoiled so rapidly that most had to be
preserved by drying, salting, smoking,
fermenting, or some combination of these
antimicrobial treatments. Preserved forms of
fish are still important and appreciated in
most parts of the world, especially in Europe
and Asia. It’s true that their flavor is much
more assertive than the mild fresh fish that
are now the U.S. standard. But preserved fish
aren’t just an inferior relic of preindustrial
necessity. They can be a delicious alternative,
and they offer a taste of history.


Dried Fish


Drying foods in the sun and wind is an ancient
method of preservation. Fresh fish is about
80% water; below 25%, bacteria have trouble
growing, and below 15% molds do too.

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