several changes of water. Perhaps the best-
known preparation is the Provençal brandade,
a paste made by pounding the shredded
poached fish along with olive oil, milk, garlic,
and sometimes potato.
Salt Herring Herring and their relatives may
be up to 20% fat by weight, and are therefore
susceptible to becoming rancid when exposed
to the air. Medieval fishermen solved this
problem by barreling the fish in brine, where
they would keep for as much as a year. Then
sometime around 1300, the Dutch and
northern Germans developed a quick gutting
technique that left in place a portion of the
intestine rich in digestive enzymes (the
pyloric caecum). During one to four months
of curing in a moderate brine (16–20% salt),
these enzymes circulate and supplement the
activity of both muscle and skin enzymes,
breaking down proteins to create a tender,
luscious texture and a wonderfully complex