On Food and Cooking

(Barry) #1

some herb of a stronger taste, so as to
endanger the native sapor and virtue of the
rest; but fall into their places, like the
notes in music, in which there should be
nothing harsh or grating: And though
admitting some discords (to distinguish
and illustrate the rest) striking in all the
more sprightly, and sometimes gentler
notes, reconcile all dissonancies, and melt
them into an agreeable composition.
— John Evelyn, Acetaria: A Discourse of
Sallets, 1699
At the end of the 20th century, several
developments in the industrialized world
brought renewed attention to plant foods, to
their diversity and quality. One was a new
appreciation of their importance for human
health, thanks to the discovery of trace
“phytochemicals” that appear to help fight
cancer and heart disease (p. 255). Another was
the growing interest in exotic and unfamiliar
cuisines and ingredients, and their increasing

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