BANGKOK
BANGKOKEATINGBANGKOKEATINGate of the Cordon Bleu cooking program,
makes some of the most authentic Western-
style cakes you’ll fi nd anywhere in town.
CHINATOWN & PHAHUR AT
When you mention Chinatown, most Bang-
kokians immediately dream of street food,
the best of which we’ve included in our ‘Eats
Walk’ on p 123. The area is also famous as
ground zero for the yearly Vegetarian Festi-
val (see the boxed text, p 122 ).
On the western side of the neighbour-
hood is Bangkok’s Little India, the fabric
district of Phahurat, fi lled with small Indian
and Nepali restaurants tucked into the soi
off Th Chakraphet.
Old Siam Plaza THAI $
(Map p 76 ; ground fl , Old Siam Plaza, cnr Th Phahurat
& Th Triphet; mains 15-50B; h9am-6.30pm; river
ferry Tha Saphan Phut) Sugar junkies, be sure
to include this stop on your Bangkok eating
itinerary. The ground fl oor of this shopping
centre is a candyland of traditional Thai
sweets and snacks, most made right before
your eyes.
Royal India NORTHERN INDIAN $$
(Map p 76 ; 392/1 Th Chakraphet; mains 65-250B;
hlunch & dinner; river ferry Tha Saphan Phut) Yes,
we realise that this legendary hole in the
wall has been in every edition of our guide
since the beginning, but after all these years
it’s still the most reliable place to eat in
Bangkok’s Little India. Try any of the deli-
cious breads or rich curries, and don’t forget
to fi nish with a homemade Punjabi sweet.RIVERSIDE
Le Normandie FRENCH $$$
(Map p 80 ; %0 2659 9000; http://www.mandarinoriental.
com; 48 Soi Oriental/38, Th Charoen Krung; mains
750-3900B; hnoon-2.30pm & 7-11pm Mon-Sat, 7-11
Sun; a; hotel shuttle boat from Tha Sathon/Central
Pier) As the menu, which boasts an entire
foie gras section, suggests, this is classic
French cuisine, and no fewer than 20 three-
starred Michelin chefs have helped to pre-
pare it over the years. Dress appropriately.SILOM & SATHON
Th Silom has a bit of everything, from truly
old-skool Thai to some of the city’s best up-
scale international dining.D’Sens FRENCH $$$
(Map p 82 ; %0 2200 9000; 22nd fl , Dusit Thani, 946
Th Phra Ram IV; set menu 1850-3100B; h11.30am-
2.30pm & 6-10pm, 6-10pm Sat; a; BTS Sala Daeng,
MRT Si Lom) Arguably Bangkok’s best upscale
fa·rà ng (foreign) fi ne-dining restaurant,
D’Sens is perched like an air traffi c control
tower atop the Dusit Thani hotel. A ven-
ture of French wonder-twins Laurent and
Jacques Pourcel, creators of the Michelin-
starred Le Jardin des Sens in Montpellier,
France, the menu draws from the traditions
of the south of France, relying mainly on
high-quality French imports for its ingre-
dients.VEGING OUT IN BANGKOKVegetarianism is a growing trend among urban Thais, but vegie restaurants are still gen-
erally few and far between.
Banglamphu has the greatest concentration of vegetarian-friendly restaurants, thanks
to the nonmeat-eating fa·ràng (foregners); these are typically low-scale stir-fry shops
that do something akin to what your hippie roommates have cooking in their kitchens.
We like May Kaidee (Map p 60 ; 33 Th Samsen; mains 50-100B; hlunch & dinner; a; bus 32,
516, river ferry Tha Phra Athit), which in addition to three branches around Th Khao San,
also off ers a vegie Thai cooking school, and Ranee’s (Map p 60 ; 77 Trok Mayom; dishes 70-
320B; hbreakfast, lunch & dinner; bus 32, 516, river ferry Tha Phra Athit), whose menu features
a lengthy meat-free section.
Elsewhere in town, Baan Suan Pai (Map p 118 ; Banana Family Park, Th Phahonyothin;
mains 15-30B; h7am-3pm; BTS Ari), the MBK Food Court (p 124 ), Chennai Kitchen
(p 122 ) and Arawy (Map p 60 ; 152 Th Din So, Phra Nakhon; dishes 20-30B; h8am-8pm; bus 10,
12, klorng taxi to Tha Phan Fah) all off er cheap but tasty meat-free meals. East of the city,
upscale-ish Thai- and Italian-style vegie eats can be found at Anotai (976/17 Soi Rama 9
Hospital, Rama 9; dishes 150-303B; h10am-9pm Thu-Tue; a; MRT Phra Ram 9 & access by taxi).
During the vegetarian festival in October, the whole city goes mad for tofu (see the
boxed text, p 122 ). Stalls and restaurants indicate their nonmeat menu with yellow ban-
ners; Chinatown has the highest concentration of stalls.