Thailand - Planning (Chapter)

BANGKOK

Kalapapruek THAI $$

(Map p 82 ; 27 Th Pramuan; mains 80-120B; h8am-

6pm Mon-Sat, to 3pm Sun; a; BTS Surasak)

This venerable Thai eatery has numerous

branches and mall spin-off s around town,

but we still like the quasi-concealed original

branch. The diverse menu spans regional

Thai specialties from just about every re-

gion, daily specials and, occasionally, sea-

sonal treats as well.

Scoozi PIZZA $$

(Map p 82 ; 174 Th Surawong; pizzas 100-425B;

hlunch & dinner; a; BTS Sala Daeng, MRT Si

Lom) Now boasting several locations across

Bangkok, we still think the wood-fi red piz-

zas taste best at this, the original branch.

However, if you fi nd yourself elsewhere

with a dough craving, you can also get a pie

at the Th Sukhumvit branch (Map p 92 ; Wind-

sor Hotel, Soi 20, Th Sukhumvit; a; BTS Asok, MRT

Sukhumvit).

Somboon Seafood CHINESE-THAI $$$

(Map p 82 ; 169/7-11 Th Surawong; mains 120-900B;

hdinner; a; BTS Chong Nonsi) Holy seafood

factory: ascending the many staircases to a

free table might make you nervous about the

quality of so much quantity. But Somboon’s

famous crab curry will make you messy and

full. Dainty eaters can opt for the slightly

more surgical pursuit of devouring a whole

fried fi sh.

The Foodie THAI $$

(Map p 82 ; Soi Phiphat 2; mains 80-150B; hlunch &

dinner; a; BTS Chong Nonsi) This airy, cafeteria-

like restaurant boasts a menu of hard-to-

fi nd central- and southern-style Thai dishes.

Highlights include the yam sôm oh (a spicy/

sour/sweet salad of pomelo), and the spicy

prík kĭng Ъlah dòok foo, catfi sh fried in a

curry paste until crispy.

Chennai Kitchen INDIAN $

(Map p 82 ; 10 Th Pan; mains 50-150B; h10am-3pm

& 6-9.30pm; a; BTS Surasak) This thimble-

sized restaurant puts out some of the most

solid southern Indian vegetarian around.

The arm-length dosas (a crispy southern In-

dian bread) are always a good choice, but if

you’re feeling indecisive go for the thali set

that seems to incorporate just about every-

thing in the kitchen.

Somtam Convent THAI $

(Map p 82 ; 2/4-5 Th Convent; mains 20-120B;

h10.30am-9pm; BTS Sala Daeng, MRT Si Lom)

Northeastern-style Thai food is usually rel-

egated to less-than-hygienic stalls perched by

the side of the road with no menu or English-

speaking staff in sight. A less intimidating in-

troduction to the wonders of lâhp (a minced

meat ‘salad’), sôm·đam (papaya salad) and

other Isan delights can be had at this popu-

lar restaurant.

Soi 10 Food Centres THAI $

(Map p 82 ; Soi 10, Th Silom; mains 20-60B; hlunch

Mon-Fri; BTS Sala Daeng, MRT Si Lom) These

two adjacent hangarlike buildings tucked

behind Soi 10 are the main lunchtime

fuelling stations for this area’s offi ce staff.

Choices range from southern-style kôw

gaang (point-and-choose curries ladled

over rice) to virtually every form of Thai

noodle.

Nadimos LEBANESE $$

Map p 82 ; Baan Silom, cnr Th Silom & Soi 19; mains

70-400B; hlunch & dinner; a; BTS Surasak, bus 15,

504) This semiformal dining room does tasty

versions of all the Lebanese standards, plus

quite a few dishes you’d never expect to see

this far from Beirut. There’s lots of vegetar-

ian options as well.

WAVING THE YELLOW FLAG

During the annual Vegetarian Festival in September/October, Bangkok’s Chinatown

becomes a virtual orgy of nonmeat cuisine. The festivities centre on Chinatown’s main

street, Th Yaowarat, and the Talat Noi area (see p 79 ), but food shops and stalls all over

the city post yellow fl ags to announce their meat-free status.

Celebrating alongside the ethnic Chinese are Thais who look forward to the special

dishes that appear during the festival period. Most restaurants put their normal menus

on hold and instead prepare soy-based substitutes for standard Thai dishes such as đôm

yam (spicy, sour soup) and gaang kĕe·o wăhn (green curry). Even Thai regional cuisines

are sold without the meat. Of the special festival dishes, yellow Hokkien-style noodles

appear in stir-fried dishes along with meaty mushrooms and big hunks of vegetables.

Along with abstinence from meat, the 10-day festival is celebrated with special visits

to a temple, often requiring worshippers to dress in white.