66 Accessible Edinburgh: A Festival Guide Sights 67
Grassmarket
The site of a cattle market from the 15th century until the start
of the 20th century, the Grassmarket has always been a focal
point of the Old Town. It was once the city’s main place of exe-
cution, and over 100 martyred Covenanters are commemorated
by a monument at the eastern end, where the gallows used to
stand. The notorious murderers Burke and Hare operated from a
now-vanished close off the western end.
Nowadays the broad, open square, lined by tall tenements
and dominated by the looming castle, has many lively pubs and
restaurants, including the White Hart Inn, which was once pat-
ronised by Robert Burns. Claiming to be the city’s oldest pub in
continuous use (since 1516), it also hosted William Wordsworth
in 1803. Cowgate – the long, dark ravine leading eastwards from
the Grassmarket – was once the road along which cattle were
driven from the pastures around Arthur’s Seat to the safety of
the city walls. Today it is the heart of Edinburgh’s nightlife, with
around two dozen clubs and bars within five minutes’ walk of
each other.
Apart from some cobblestones, surfaces are generally
smooth and well maintained; approaches from certain direc-
tions can be hilly. There shouldn’t be a problem finding a parking
space on the street if you have a Blue Badge. The accessible
toilet has, sadly, been demolished.
Greyfriars Bobby Statue
cnr George IV Bridge & Candlemaker Row; buses 2, 23, 27, 35, 41,
42, 45
Probably the most popular photo opportunity in Edinburgh, the
life-size statue of Greyfriars Bobby, a Skye terrier who captured
the hearts of the British public in the late 19th century, stands
outside Greyfriars Kirkyard. From 1858 to 1872, the wee dog
supposedly maintained a vigil over the grave of his master, an
Edinburgh police officer. The story was immortalised in a novel
by Eleanor Atkinson in 1912, and in 1963 was made into a movie
by – who else? – Walt Disney.
The statue is always surrounded by crowds of visitors taking
photos of themselves posing beside the little dog. Bobby’s own
grave, marked by a small, pink granite stone, is just inside the
entrance to Greyfriars Kirkyard, behind the monument, and you
can see his original collar and bowl in the Museum of Edinburgh.
Greyfriars Kirk
0131-225 1900; http://www.greyfriarskirk.com; Candlemaker Row;
10.30am-4.30pm Mon-Fri & 11am-2pm Sat Apr-Oct, closed Nov-
Mar; buses 2, 23, 27, 35, 41, 42, 45One of Edinburgh’s most famous churches, Greyfriars Kirk was
built on the site of a Franciscan friary and opened for worship on
Christmas Day 1620. Surrounding the church, Greyfriars Kirk-
yard is one of Edinburgh’s most evocative cemeteries, a peaceful
green oasis dotted with elaborate monuments. Many famous Ed-
inburgh names are buried here, including the poet Allan Ramsay
(1686–1758), architect William Adam (1689–1748) and William
Smellie (1740–95), the editor of the first edition of the Encyclo-
pedia Britannica.
In 1638 the National Covenant was signed in the kirk, reject-
ing Charles I’s attempts to impose episcopacy and a new English
prayer book on the Scots, and affirming the independence of the
Scottish Church. Many who signed were later executed at the
Grassmarket and, in 1679, 1200 Covenanters were held prisoner
in terrible conditions in the southwestern corner of the kirkyard.
There’s a small museum inside the church.
If you want to experience the graveyard at its scariest – inside
a burial vault, in the dark, at night – go on one of the City of the
Dead guided tours.
Once inside, there’s level access and an accessible toilet.
Call ahead or email to arrange accessible parking close to the
church – gates will have to be opened. This is advisable for man-
ual wheelchair users as there is a short hill and cobblestones to
negotiate before entering the grounds. Staff are reportedly very
helpful, and will ensure that wheelchair users are given a decent
view if attending a concert.Highland Tolbooth Kirk
Castlehill; buses 23, 27, 41, 42Edinburgh’s tallest spire (71.7m) is at the foot of Castlehill and
is a prominent feature of the Old Town’s skyline. The interior has
been refurbished and it now houses the Hub – the ticket office
and the information centre for the Edinburgh Festival. There’s
also a good cafe here.
Although not all reviewers were equally impressed, access is
fine and staff are helpful. There is an accessible toilet. Note that
the Hub is located at the end of the Royal Mile, a fairly steep hill.
When attending events, wheelchair users will need to use a plat-
form lift and then a conventional lift.