Giraffes in Wine
Country? Whadya know!
Just 4 miles west (Petrified
Forest Rd becomes Porter
Creek Rd), Safari West
(%707-579-2551; http://www.
safariwest.com; 3115 Porter Creek
Rd; adult $68-78, child 3-12 $32,
child under 2 $15; (^) c) covers
400 acres and protects
zebras, cheetahs and other
exotic animals, which
mostly roam free. See them
on a guided three-hour
safari in open-sided jeeps;
reservations required.
You’ll also walk through an
aviary and lemur condo.
The reservations-only cafe
serves lunch and dinner. If
you’re feeling adventurous,
stay overnight in nifty
canvas-sided tent cabins
(cabins incl breakfast $200-295),
right in the preserve.
The Drive » Return east back
to Calistoga and drive 1 mile
south on Hwy 29/128 and 1
mile north on Lincoln Ave to the
Silverado Trail. Lined with row
after row of grapevines, journey
21 miles southeast along lovely
Silverado Trail.
8 Silverado Trail
The Napa Valley winery
jackpot, Silverado Trail
runs from Calistoga
to Napa and counts
approximately three-dozen
wineries along its bucolic
path. At the northernmost
reaches of the Silverado
Trail, and breaking ranks
with Napa snobbery, the
party kids at Lava Vine
(%707-942-9500; http://www.lavavine.
com; 965 Silverado Trail; tasting
$10, refundable with purchase;
h10am-5pm, appointment
suggested; (^) c#) take a
lighthearted approach to
their seriously good wines,
all paired with small bites,
including some hot off the
barbecue. Children and
dogs play outside, while
you let your guard down
in the tiny tasting room.
Bring a picnic.
One of Napa’s oldest
wineries, unfussy Regusci
(%707-254-0403; http://www.
regusciwinery.com; 5584
Silverado Trail; tasting $15-25,
bottles $36-125; (^) h10am-5pm;
#) dates to the late 1800s,
with 173 acres of vineyards
unfurling around a
century-old stone winery
that makes Bordeaux-style
blends. Located along the
valley’s quieter eastern
side, it’s a good bet when
traffic up-valley is bad.
No appointments are
necessary, and the oak-
shaded picnic area is lovely.
Like a modern-day
Persian palace, Darioush
(%707-257-2345; http://www.darioush.
com; 4240 Silverado Trail;
tastings $18-35, bottles $40-80;
h10:30am-5pm) ranks high
on the fabulosity scale,
with towering columns,
Le Corbusier furniture,
Persian rugs and travertine
walls. Though known for
cabernet, Darioush also
bottles chardonnay, merlot
and shiraz, all made with
100% of their respective
varietals. Reserve in
advance for its wine-and-
cheese pairings.
TRIP HIGHLIGHT
Start: 6 Calistoga
Eight miles north of Calistoga via curvaceous Hwy 29, the long-extinct volcanic cone
of Mt St Helena marks the Napa Valley’s end. Encircled within undeveloped Robert
Louis Stevenson State Park (%707-942-4575; http://www.parks.ca.gov),,) the crest often gets
snow in winter. It’s a strenuous 5-mile climb to the peak’s 4343ft summit, but what
a view – 200 miles on a clear winter’s day. Check conditions before setting out. Also
consider 2.2-mile one-way Table Rock Trail (go south from the summit parking area)
for drop-dead valley views. Temperatures are best in wildflower season, February to
May; fall is prettiest, when the vineyards change colors.
The park includes the site of the Silverado Mine where Stevenson and his wife
honeymooned in 1880.
ROBERT LOUIS STEVENSON STATE PARK
DETOUR:
NORTHERN.CALIFORNIA.
5
.NAPA
VALLEY