MALAYSIABook your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels PENINSULAR MALAYSIA – EAST COAST •• Mersing
Butterworth (RM53, 12 hours, one daily),
Mersing (RM12, three hours, four daily),
Kuantan (RM20, five hours, four daily), Kuala
Terengganu (RM27, nine hours, two daily)
and Kota Bharu (RM49, 10 hours, two daily).
Long-distance taxis also leave from Larkin
(there’s a price list at the stand).
A taxi from central JB to the bus station
should cost RM8.
TRAIN
Daily express trains depart Johor Bahru
(RM33 to RM64) three times per day for
Kuala Lumpur. It is also possible to change
at Gemas (RM21 to RM38) and hop aboard
the Jungle Railway for connections to Jerantut
(if you’re headed for Taman Negara) and Kota
Bharu. See p486 for further information on
the Jungle Railway.
MERSING
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The jumping-off point for Pulau Tioman,
Mersing is busy and compact, and has eve-
rything that travellers might need: cheap in-
ternet, good sleeping options, grocery stores,
cold beer and a pharmacy. The river is clogged
with colourful fishing boats but beyond the
riverfront there’s not much to explore.
Sleeping & Eating
Omar’s Backpackers’ Hostel (%799 5096, 019-774 4268;
Jln Abu Bakar; dm/d RM10/25) A tiny, clean and social
backpackers’ pad very near the jetty, Omar’s
is just as well known for the owner’s tours
to some of the lesser-visited islands around
Tioman. Reservations are recommended dur-
ing the peak season.
Hotel Golden City (%799 5028; 23 Jln Abu Bakar; s
RM15, d RM35-45; a) Rudimentary rooms have
cement floors and saggy mattresses but it’s
passably clean. Singles have shared bath-
rooms and only the most expensive options
have air-conditioning.
Hotel Embassy (%799 3545; 2 Jln Ismail; d/tr/q
with private bathroom RM45/55/65; a) This is a
fabulously posh-feeling choice compared
to the other cheapies in town: all rooms
are huge, and have cable TV, air-con and
private bathrooms.
Port Café & Bistro (Jln Abu Bakar; mains RM8-25;
hlunch & dinner) A surprisingly hip bar and ea-
tery right at the jetty, serving Western grub
like pizzas (from RM22) and Malay speciali-
ties like a dolled-up nasi lemak (RM9). The
bar serves beer, wine and cocktails and there’s
live music some nights.
There are several places around town for
roti canai and kopi (coffee) and seafood stalls
open up nightly near the bus station along
the river.Getting There & Away
Buses depart from the station near the
bridge on the river. Destinations include
Kuala Lumpur (RM38, six hours, five daily),
Johor Bahru (RM12, three hours, two daily),
Kuantan (RM16, five hours, two daily), Kuala
Terengganu (RM34, nine hours, two daily) and
Singapore (RM14, three hours, twice daily).
See p475 for information on ferries to/from
Pulau Tioman.PULAU TIOMAN
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From late nights at Salang bars to days of
trekking through the wild jungles, surfing
the beaches at Juara or diving the reefs and
wrecks off the coast, Tioman has as much
action or non-action as anyone could hope
for. The beaches aren’t as voluptuous as those
on Langkawi or the Perhentians, but it’s not a
hardship to saunter past crystalline rivers and
rows of hibiscus to find a patch of sand. The
proximity to Singapore and the availability
of upscale digs has made Tioman relatively
touristy but the island is so big and the locals
are so mellow that most people forget to be
bothered by this.
During the east coast monsoon, from about
November to March, boat services to the is-
land are infrequent or suspended. If you plan
to visit Tioman during this time be prepared
to get stuck in Mersing overnight or longer.Orientation & Information
Most budget accommodation is clustered
in Air Batang (ABC) and Salang on theTIOMAN SCAMS
Several agents around Mersing might try
to sell you accommodation on Tioman.
Rates from these agencies are sometimes
doubled, turning what would otherwise be
a great budget hut into an overpriced dis-
appointment. If you’re worried about find-
ing accommodation, call the guest house
yourself to reserve a room.473