MALAYSIAlonelyplanet.com PENINSULAR MALAYSIA – EAST COAST •• Pulau Perhentian
PULAU PERHENTIAN
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Long Beach on Pulau Kecil of the Perhentian
Islands is one of Malaysia’s most popular back-
packer congregation spots. The near-perfect
crescent of white sand is clogged with guest
houses (but no cars!) but the jungle setting
and chummy vibe are hypnotic, the turquoise
water utterly sublime. Some travellers show up
here expecting a big party but be warned, these
are quiet islands and those looking for a full-
moon fiesta atmosphere are very much in the
wrong place. Coral Beach, also on Kecil, is a
touch classier than Long Beach, while the digs
on Pulau Besar verge on the resortlike.
The best time to visit is from March to
mid-November. The Perhentians close for the
monsoon season – some places don’t bother
opening till April or later – although some
hotels remain open for hardier tourists.
There are no banks on the Perhentians.
Generators are the source of power and are
run during limited hours. There are no public
phones but mobile phones work. Internet is
scarce and costs around RM20 per hour.
Also please, please note: this is still
Malaysia, and topless sunbathing is rude.
Locals are too polite to tell people to their
face, but baring your breasts insults their sense
of modesty.
Activities
Dive operators on the island contend that the
Perhentians offer all the underwater delights
of the east coast of Thailand without the ‘dive-
factory’ feel. A four-day open-water course
costs RM850 to RM1100. For the surface
skimmers, guest houses arrange snorkelling
trips around the island (around RM40).
Sleeping & Eating
On Pulau Kecil (Small Island), Long Beach
has the biggest range of budget chalets and
‘nightlife’ (that means two beachfront bars).
In the high season (usually from late May to
early September), finding accommodation
here can be tough, so book ahead or arrive
early. Accommodation on Pulau Besar (Big
Island) is more upmarket and usually includes
air-con and a private bathroom.
Alcohol is available in a few bars and hotel
restaurants on both islands. The best hunt-
ing grounds for a beer are the more popular
Long Beach cafes and Watercolours Resort
on Pulau Perhentian Besar.
PULAU PERHENTIAN KECIL
A trail over the narrow waist of the island
leads from Long Beach to smaller Coral Bay
(sometimes known as Aur Bay) on the western
side of the island. It’s a 15-minute walk along
a footpath through the jungle interior.Long Beach
The surf can get rather big on Long Beach
and several places along the beach rent bo-
ogie boards and old clunky surfboards. Take
care when swimming here as there have been
several near tragedies.
Chempaka Chalets (%010 985 7329; r RM20-70) A
group of bungalows in a bland but tidy gar-
den, Chempaka gets extra points for cleanli-
ness and its beach-bum vibe.
Matahari Chalets (%019 956 5756; chalets RM25-120)
The spacious longhouse rooms and A-frame
huts are in much better condition than those
of the competition. They ramble around a
well-kept but shadeless garden off the beach.
Mohsin Chalet (%961 1580; r from RM30) Mohsin
has some wonderful chalets sprawling into
the sand and up a hill. The receptionist is
surreally friendly, and the ambience is
tropically languid.
Lemon Grass (%012 956 2393; r RM35) At the
southern tip of Long Beach, Lemon Grass has
no-frills huts. There are great views from the
verandah at reception and some nice secluded
spots to sit and gaze out to sea.
Rock Garden (r RM40) On the rocky cliff behind
Lemon Grass, this place has new owners and
might not be called Rock Garden by the time
you read this. The view from the huts over-
looking Long Beach is fabulous.Coral Bay & Other Beaches
Coral Bay has a more chilled ambience than
Long Beach and faces the west for brilliant
sunsets and calm swimming. There are also
a number of small bays around the island,
each with one set of chalets, and often only
accessible by boat.
D’ Lagoon Chalets (%019 985 7089; r RM25-60) This
place fronts a gorgeous but often agitated bay
on the northeastern side of the island. There
are longhouse rooms and chalets, as well as a
more unusual tree house (RM25) for a more
Tarzan experience.
Aur Bay Chalets (%010 985 8584; r RM30-40) This
well-groomed but fading place at Coral Bay
feels like a mini kampong with its sweet Malay
owners and kids skipping in the sand.481