MALAYSIA
PENINSULAR MALAYSIA – EAST COAST •• Kota Bharu Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotelsoPetani Beach House (r RM30-65)^ On a
secluded south coast beach, the driftwood
naturalistic decor here is set off by bows
of magenta bougainvillea. We’ve had very
enthusiastic traveller recommendations for
the quality of the bungalows, the service and
the food.
Mira Chalets (%010 964 0582; r RM30-70) Mira, on
the west coast, has sea-weathered, rustic huts
with mosquito nets perched over a beach so
deserted and perfect you’ll think you’re hal-
lucinating. There’s one rather adventurous
jungle toilet for everyone to share.
Maya Beach Resort (%019 937 9136; r RM35-45)
British-run Maya on Coral Bay is neat and
trim and a good place for friendly advice.
Butter fly Chalets (r RM45-60) Ageing huts look
out over Coral Bay and are tucked in by
hibiscus flowers.PULAU PERHENTIAN BESAR
Of the three main beaches, the sand sur-
rounding the Perhentian Island Resort is the
rockiest, heading south the sand is less clut-
tered, and finally Teluk Dalam, a secluded
bay with a long stretch of shallow beach,
is just silken. An easily missed track leads
from behind the second jetty over the hill to
Teluk Dalam.
It is possible to camp on the beach south
of the Government Resthouse (‘Love Beach’),
although this area is far from quiet on long
weekends. You’ll need a permit (RM5 per
night), available at a little cafe here, if it’s
open. The beach and bays down this way
are spectacular.
The options here are listed from north
to south.
Watercolours Resort (%691 1111; http://www.watercol
oursworld.com; r RM70-130; a) This friendly resort
has clean chalets and a dive centre; both are
about the best value on Besar.
Mama’s Place (%019 985 3359; http://www.mamaschalet
.com; r RM60-100) The southernmost place on
this section of beach has a choice of reason-
ably comfortable chalets that come with or
without bathrooms.
Abdul’s (%010 983 7303; r RM40-80) Clambering
over the next headland brings you to a quiet
beach where you’ll find this popular place
with fan chalets and attached bathrooms.
Ever fresh Beach Resort (%697 7620; Teluk Dalam;
r RM30-80) Rooms here are tatty and dark but
who cares when you’ve got a beach like this
one out front.Getting There & Around
Speedboats (RM70 return, 35 minutes) run
several times a day from Kuala Besut to the
Perhentians from 8.30am to 5.30pm. There
used to be cheaper (and safer) slow boats ply-
ing this route, but this wasn’t the case during
our research. The boats will drop you off at
any of the beaches.
In the other direction, speedboats depart
from the islands daily at around 8am, noon
and 4pm. It’s a good idea to let the owner of
your guest house know a day before you leave
so they can arrange a pick-up.
When the waves are high on Long Beach,
you’ll be dropped off or picked up on the
other side of the island at Coral Bay. Also,
guest house operators on Kecil charge RM3
per person for ferry pick-ups and drop-offs.
The easiest way to island (or beach) hop
is by boat. Posted fares and boat operators
usually camp out under a shady coconut tree.
From island to island, the trip costs RM20
per boat.KOTA BHARU
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Kota Bharu is supremely pleasant; it has the
energy of a mid-sized city, the compact feel
and friendly vibe of a small town, superb food
and a good spread of accommodation. It’s the
logical overnight stop between Thailand and
the Perhentians, but you’d be wise to give Kota
Bharu more time than a pit stop.Information
Banks and ATMs are scattered around town;
Maybank (Jln Pintu Pong), near the night market,
is usually open till 7pm. Internet shops can
be found in the alleys around Jln Doktor and
Jln Kebun Sultan.
Immigration office (%748 212; Jln Temenggong)
Tourist Information Centre (%748 5534; Jln Sultan
Ibrahim; h8am-1pm & 2-4.30pm Sun-Wed)Sights & Activities
Kota Bharu’s Central Market (Pasar Besar Siti Khadijah;Jln Hulu; (^) h6am-6pm) is one of the most colourful
and active in Malaysia and is at its busiest first
thing in the morning – it’s usually packed up
by early afternoon. Downstairs is the produce
section, while upstairs stalls sell spices, brass-
ware and batik.
For a dose of Malay tradition, don’t miss
the cultural centre, Gelanggang Seni (% 744
3124; Jln Mahmud; admission free; h3.30-5.30pm & 9-
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