MALAYSIA
PENINSULAR MALAYSIA – EAST COAST •• Kota Bharu Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotelsbirth to death; this may not sound that en-
gaging, but wandering around the scenic
building gives a glimpse into Malay Muslim
architecture. Muzium Islam (%744 0102; Jln Sultan;
admission free; h8.30am-4.45pm Sat-Thu) is also worth
a look and Istana Batu (%748 7737; Jln Hilir Kota;
adult RM2; h8.30am-4.45pm Sat-Thu) has displays
on royal history.Sleeping
The backpacker places listed here are all great,
and have both shared-bathroom and private-
bathroom (read: pricier) options.
KB Backpackers (%748 8841, 019 944 5222; www
.kb-backpackers.com.my; 1872-D Jln Padang Garong; dm/r
from RM8/20; ai) KB’s rooms are only so-
so but the owner Pawi is so helpful, and the
vibe at his hostel is so internationally chilled
out, that we can’t help but declare our love
of KB.
Denai Lodge (%017 370 7781, 019 963 2324;
[email protected]; 2984-F Jln Parit Dalam; dm/s/d
from RM8/20/35; i) Run by former trekking
guides, new Denai has friendly owners and
clean digs. It promises to be a sociable, easy-
going spot with a quiet reading room, TV-
centred common room etc.
Zeck’s Travellers’ Inn (%743 1613; http://www.zeck
-traveller.com; 7088G Jln Sri Cemerlang; dm/s/d RM10/18/25;
ai) An oasis just 10 minutes’ walk from
the city, Zeck’s is relaxed, clean and over-the-
top hospitable. Many travellers on a short stop
stay on longer just because of this place. The
turn-off from Jln Sri Cemerlang is easy to
miss; keep an eye out for the roadside shack
selling fresh fritters.
Ideal Travellers’ Guest House (%744 2246; www
.ugoideal.com; 3954F Jln Kebun Sultan; s/d from RM10/25;i) Down an alley off Jln Pintu Pong, the
Ideal is a deservedly popular place of happy,
mingling backpackers. Spacious rooms are
airy and have lots of natural light. Bathrooms
get a regular scrub down and there’s a shady
backyard reading area.Eating & Drinking
Kota Bharu is a conservative Muslim city
so alcohol is not widely available; head to
Chinese restaurants if you’re hankering for
a beer.
oNight Market^ (cnr Jln Datok Pati & Jln Pintu
Pong;hdinner) For a bonanza of regional Malay
and Indian specialities at hawker prices, head
to this vibrant market. Here you will find
ayam percik (marinated chicken on bam-
boo skewers), nasi kerabu (rice tinted blue
with herbs, mixed with coconut, fish, veg-
etables and spices), squid-on-a-stick, sweet
banana and savoury murtabak (thick Indian
pancake stuffed with onion, egg, chicken,
mutton or vegetables), and a bewildering
array of cakes. Prayer always pulls rank over
food and at prayer time (roughly between
7pm and 7.45pm) everyone is chased out of
the market.
Chinese Night Market (Jln Kebun Sultan; meals RM3;
h6pm-midnight) Has numerous hawker stalls
selling hot snack food.
Sultan Kopitiam (Jln Kebun Sultan; mains from RM 3;
h24 hr;W) This bustling cafe has good coffee
and free wi-fi for net heads.
Restoran Sri Devi (%746 2980; 4213F Jln Kebun
Sultan; dishes RM3-6; hbreakfast, lunch & dinner) As
popular with locals as with tourists, this is a
great place for banana-leaf curry, roti canai
and mango lassi. There are also plenty of
vegetarian options.
Restoran Golden City (Jln Padang Garong; mains from
RM5; hlunch & dinner) Besides being an excel-
lent spot for Chinese noodles, steamed fish
and tofu dishes, you’ll be able to wash it all
down with a cold Tiger.Getting There & Away
AIR
Air Asia (%746 1671) and Firefly (%037-845 4543)
have direct daily flights to KL.BUS
There are three bus stations in Kota Bharu.
Local buses depart from the central bus station
(Jln Padang Garong), also known as the state-run
SKMK bus station. Most long-distance busesA DAY AT THE BEACH
Kota Bharu has some lovely surrounding
beaches but because this area is strongly
Islamic a visit is more of a cultural, nature-
loving experience than a bronzing one.
Cover up and head out to the main beach,
Pantai Cahaya Bulan (PCB; Moonlight
Beach), taking Bus 10 (RM1.30) from behind
the Handicraft Village in Kota Bharu. A taxi
costs RM30. More isolated is Pantai Irama
(Beach of Melody) in wild and windswept
Bachok, and it’s one of the best beaches
around. From the central bus station in Kota
Bharu, catch Bus 23 or 39 (RM2).484