MALAYSIA
MALAYSIAN BORNEO – SABAH •• Mt Kinabalu & Kinabalu National Parkblinding humidity, frigid winds, and slow-
paced Japanese 50-somethings donning
Chanel tracksuits.
There are two trail options leading up the
mountain – the Timpohon Trail and the
Mesilau Trail. If this is your first time climb-
ing Kinabalu, we strongly advise taking the
Timpohon Trail – it’s shorter, easier (but by
no means easy!), and convenient to the park
headquarters by a long walk (one hour) or
short park shuttle ride (RM17 per vehicle one
way, four persons max). The Mesilau Trail
offers second-time climbers (or uber-fit hik-
ers) the opportunity to really enjoy some of
the park’s natural wonders. This trail is less
trodden so the chance of seeing unique flora
and fauna is higher.
Track down a copy of our Malaysia, Singa-
pore & Brunei guide for a play-by-play of the
trek to the summit.Sleeping
LABAN RATA (ON THE MOUNTAIN)
Organising your accommodation on the
mountain can be the most difficult part of
your Kinabalu adventure. Access to the sum-
mit is essentially rationed by access to the huts
on the mountain at Laban Rata (3273m) and
this must be booked in advance (the earlier
the better!).
Sutera Sanctuary Lodges (Map p493 ; %088-243629;
http://www.suterasanctuarylodges.com; Lot G15, Wisma Sabah, Jln
Haji Saman, Kota Kinabalu; h8.30am-4.30pm Mon-Sat, to
12.30pm Sun) operates almost all of the accom-
modation here, but space is very limited, so
plan ahead (see also p492 ). The most com-
mon sleeping option is the heated dormi-
tory (bedding included) in the Laban Rata
building, which sells for RM360 per person.
Three meals (dinner, breakfast and lunch)TOP FIVE BORNEO TREKS
Borneo is like a steaming equatorial cauldron bubbling over with a veritable encyclopaedia of flora
and fauna, and the best way to discover this fascinating world is by trekking straight through it.
We’ve assembled a list with our five favourite treks – if you can check off three of these, consider
yourself an accomplished adventurer. Those who tick off all five are Borneo superstars.
Mt Kinabalu ( p497 ) Yes Kinabalu, we all know that you’re the big cheese. And, yes, the
reputation is well deserved. In addition to the summit’s granite spires offering awe-inducing
views, there are several pleasant jaunts around the mountain’s base, including the 6km
Liwagu Trail, which would be swarming with people if it weren’t for the fact that it’s located
below the island’s most celebrated climb.
Kelabit Highlands ( p523 ) Borneo’s real trekking hotspot is Sarawak’s stunning Kelabit High-
lands spiking up along the Indonesian border like the spine of a sleeping dinosaur. This is the
closest it gets to Himalayan teahouse treks as visitors pass between hidden runes and lonely
longhouse communities peppered throughout the region.(^) Temburong ( p59 ) Due to the surplus of oil and gas, Brunei never had to log their pristine
rainforest to earn a few extra bucks. Thus the jungle in Temburong (the smaller of the sultan-
ate’s two jigsaw-puzzle-like land holdings) is a stunning realm of sweltering primary forest.
All-inclusive adventures through this emerald expanse can be organised through one of sev-
eral tour operators based in Bandar Seri Begawan ( p63 ; self-planned excursions are currently
impossible due to national park regulations and transport restrictions).
(^) Headhunters Trail ( p523 ) According to legend, the Headhunters Trail was an ancient tribal
warpath (it was actually a docile trading route) – today it’s a fantastic two-day jungle trek
connecting the island’s green interior to the crystal coastal waters. Fit trekkers can include a
side trip to the Pinnacles – an expanse of jagged stone that looks like a collection of granite
toothpicks. But be warned: if the Kinabalu Climb is, say, a ‘7’ on the difficulty scale, then the
Pinnacles add-on is about a ‘10’.
(^) Bako National Park ( p514 ) Bako is one of the most rewarding ‘do it yourself’ destinations in
all of Borneo and it proves that you don’t have to travel deep into the jungle to mingle with
island’s infamous wildlife. Try the Telok Limau Trail (10km), ending at a stunning deserted
beach, or the Lintang Trail (5.25km), boasting samples of the park’s diverse vegetation. Pro-
boscis monkeys and sneaky macaques abound.
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